The walled city of Salé lies on the northern banks of the Oued Bou Regreg. Although nowadays it’s effectively a suburb of Rabat, in the past Salé has at times been the more favored of the two. The settlement was first established in the 10th century as an alternative to the aging Sala Colonia across the river. In the 13th century, the ruling Merenid dynasty built the city’s walls, which can still be seen today, in response to raids by Spanish looters. The Merenids also constructed a canal that passed through the main entrance gate, Bab Mrisa.
The canal, no longer visible, offered secure access for merchant ships to sail right into the city, and as a result, Salé grew in stature to become one of the most important ports on Morocco’s Atlantic coastline. Its stature grew even more during the 17th and 18th centuries, along with that of its twin sister across the river, when the two cities benefited from an influx of Muslim refugees from southern Spain, and the ensuing activities of the infamous Sallee Rovers. The Bab Mrisa canal was especially useful to the shallow-keeled vessels used by the pirates.
Once the renegade cities returned to central rule and European interest became focused on Rabat, Salé quickly fell from favor. The 1957 construction of the bridge, Pont Moulay Hassan, connecting the two only hastened Salé’s decline as many of its citizens, called Slawis, shifted to the newer suburbs on the Rabat side of the river. Those that have stayed have kept their independent streak and “tribal” sense of belonging, however, and Slawis are considered amongst the more pious and conservative in the country.
Some of the first independence demonstrations took place here, and Slawis are well represented in the upper echelons of government and the palace. Wandering around Salé’s compact medina is a great half-day’s excursion from Rabat, including the boat ride across the river that the city historically relied upon for its existence.
Le Tour Hassan & Mausoleum of Mohammed V